A massive arts centre and 100,000 sq m cultural and music complex, complete with wave-lapped walkways and and a night market, is emerging on Kaohsiung’s balmy harbourfront – Taiwan’s showcase for experimental architecture from around the world. Adding to this will be a spectacular cruise terminal, for those favouring an Odyssean approach to the port city. A sleek light-rail system links these monuments to the rest of Kaohsiung. Further north, in Xiaogang Shan Recreation Area, hikers can view the Taiwan Strait from the new 88m 'Eye of the Mountain' skywalk, a reminder that water is ever-present. Kaohsiung is surging with possibilities: visit before the world gets wind of it.